As the largest commercial port in the country, Odessa is often called the Southern Capital of Ukraine. Cosmopolitan and exuberant, with impressive architecture and vivid folklore, this very special city on the Black Sea coast definitely has its own soul and its own charms.
Founded by Empress Catherine the Great in 1794 and governed for a long time by the French Duke de Richelieu, the city keeps alive the spirit of its outstanding founding fathers and mothers and of the unbelievable freedom that comes with being a port city.

Day 1. Old Odessa by Foot

Start at iconic Primorsky Boulevard, a shady seaside promenade which not only reveals the picturesque panorama of Odessa harbour, but also abounds in historical and architectural monuments. From the Roman-looking Duke de Richelieu monument, descend the 192 Potemkin Steps featured in Eisenstein’s classic film “Battleship Potemkin”, the gala entrance to the city for those who arrive to Odessa by sea. Pass by the newly opened monument to Catherine the Great, the painstakingly restored Opera Theatre – a beautiful mixture of Viennese Baroque and Rococo styles – and enjoy lunch at one of the numerous restaurants along Odessa’s main street, Deribasivska (Deribasovskaya in Russian).

Day 2. Grand Mansions

Plunge into the refined atmosphere of Odessa’s grand, aristocratic mansions in which many great families in the history of the city have lived. Feel the charm of 19th-century times while visiting the Tolstoy Palace with its sophisticated interiors, furniture and marble, or the marvellous Gagarin Palace now housing the city’s Literature Museum. Explore the Grotto – one of the hidden underground sections of the Pototski Palace, a blend of classical designs with a natural cave that used to be where women of Odessa’s high society used to arrange secret rendez-vous. In the Grotto enjoy a glass of chilled Odessa sparkling wine while listening to classical music.

Hot Tip!

No visit to Odessa would be complete without a visit to the city’s Opera House for an evening performance of classic opera or ballet. The theatre’s acoustics are world-class, giving audiences the feel of being able to hear even the slightest whisper carry from the stage into the hall.

Sights

Duke De Richelieu Monument

The monument to Duke de Richelieu, the builder and the first mayor of Odessa, now stands atop the famous Potemkin Steps, which run downward to the seaport of Odessa. The monument holds important symbolic and historical value for the city and its residents, as many recognise it as the city’s talisman: Odessans often arrange meetings and rendezvous there in hopes that by passing the statue their wishes will come true.

The Potemkin Steps

This giant stairway consisting of 192 steps links the city centre to the seaport. Designed by the Italian architect Francesco Boffa and dedicated by Count Vorontsov to his wife Elizabeth, the Potemkin Steps were constructed in the Classical style at a project cost of 800,000 roubles. The steps originally took the name the “Richelieu Stairs” (owing to the monument of the Duke at the top) until the Bolshevik Revolution of 1917, whereinafter they were rededicated in honour of the rebellious sailors on the Battleship Potemkin made famous by the Eisenstein film of the same name.

The Odessa Seaport

The seaport of Odessa is an exciting example of modern structure combining glass and steel. International cruise liners call at the port on a regular basis during the summer, and a sculpture named “Golden Boy” by Ernst Neizvestni stands in front of the terminal, offering good luck to those who travel by sea.

The Seafront (Primorsky Boulevard)

Primorsky Boulevard offers excellent views to the sea and the seaport, and many locals and city visitors consider it their favourite place to go for a walk in the city. The walkway is rimmed with chestnut and sycamore trees and is bookended by a palace on one end and the old stock exchange building at the other. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the boulevard’s initial decoration changed somewhat as the facades of several buildings were renovated, but the local architectural ensemble maintains the classic look and noble spirit of that bygone era.

Odessa City Hall

Francesco Boffa’s beautiful building at Dumska Square for the Odessa Commodity Exchange resembles Alexander’s Palace in Tsarskoe Selo near St. Petersburg in Russia. Today it stands as one of the best patterns of classicist architecture in Ukraine. Twelve columns decorate its façade, as do a statue of Mercury, the Roman god of trade and commerce, and a statue of Ceres, the Roman goddess of agriculture. Two female statues with clocks symbolise the eternity of time, while adjacent to the place, a fountain monument dedicated to Alexander Pushkin can also be seen.
Dumskaya Square, 1

Vorontsov Palace

This palace, previously owned by Russian Count Vorontsov, was built on a hill near the shoreline on the spot where the Turkish Hajibei fortress stood centuries ago and which itself replaced buildings left by the Greek city-state that once held sway in the area. The palace was constructed by Francesco Boffa in 1827 in the Imperial style and was a great success with the public due to its exterior views and interior design. One of the most beautiful parts of the palace is the belvedere piazza, which offers a great view of the nearby harbour.
1 Primorsky Blvd.

A Piece of Old Odessa

Unique pieces of history have been gathered in one place in Odessa near the Pedestrian Bridge. Look for a genuine old alcove, a small bow-shaped bridge with beautiful trelliswork, sculptural compositions with griffins, pieces of ornamental casting and a well dug in 1858. Such wells were the primary source of water for the city until 1873.
Primorsky Blvd., next to the Pedestrian Bridge

National Academic Opera and Ballet Theatre of Odessa

The theatre was erected over 1884-87 and ranks as one of the most beautiful opera house designs in Europe. Done in the Viennese Baroque style, the building’s decorations include sculptures featuring the Muses (patrons of theatre, music, dancing, comedy and tragedy), plus small statues of Alexander Pushkin, Mikhail Glinka, Alexander Griboyedov and Nikolai Gogol. The theatre is famous for its rich history owing to the many renowned writers and composers who once visited it, and the world-famous singers such as Feodor Chaliapin, Enrico Caruso and Leonid Sobinov who used to perform there.

The Opera Theatre Park

Nicknamed the ”Palais Royale”, the park space to the left of the theatre’s main entrance is a charming and tranquil place where only the wind can be heard whispering through its magnificent trees and the Chinese fountain babbling in the very centre. An outdoor café erected around the fountain is open all summer long and closes in the autumn.
1 Tchaikovsky Alley

Deribasovskaya Street

The city’s main artery is named after its first mayor, Osip Deribas. The majority of the street is a pedestrian area very much favoured by locals and tourists, as is the adjacent and colourful Municipal Garden. Life is always in full swing on Deribasovskaya (Deribasivska in Ukrainian) given its many restaurants, bars, retail outlets and clubs all up and down its length. Deribasovskaya features many places of interest of symbolical importance to Odessa, such as its statues of male and female lions, the monument to the 12th chair from the famous book by Elias Ilf and Eugene Petrov, and the monument to Russian actor and singer Leonid Utiosov.

Municipal Garden

In Odessa, the Municipal Garden off Deribasovskaya Street is as beloved by city residents as the Arbat is to Muscovites and the Andriyivsky Uzviz is to Kyivans. Its beautiful square with beds of roses, fountains, alcoves and benches gives out onto tall, magnificent trees as old as the city itself. The Perfumes Fountain, the only one of its kind in the world, can be found here as designed by the French perfume maker Christophe Lacarin. Instead of water, the fountain sprinkles specially selected aromas into the air each hour.

Sculpture Garden

Just next to the local Literature Museum, the Italian-style patio of the Sculpture Garden reflects the local tradition of cosy backyards in Odessa. The collection depicts famous characters of local folklore and other well-known Odessans including Rabinovitz, the main protagonist in hundreds of popular local jokes, and ancient pieces of sculpture representing the Cumans and the Scythians, a medieval nomadic people who once lived on the northern shores of the Black Sea. The idea for this open-air sculpture display came about thanks to Mikhail Zhvanetski, a well-known Odessa-born comic and satirist.
2 Lanzheronovska St.

St. Panteleymon Monastery

The impressive St. Panteleymon Monastery owes its grandeur and beauty to its five cupolas, fretworks and mosaics, which reflect a mixture of architectural styles from the previous century.
In 1876, a branch establishment of the worldwide Orthodox Monastery of Athos was formed where the monastery now stands. In the past up to 2,000 Orthodox Christians would set off from here for pilgrimage to Christian shrines in the Holy Land.
66 Panteleymonovska St.

Arabic Culture Centre

Recently added to the architectural heritage of Odessa, the building of the Arabic Cultural Centre in 2001 was sponsored by an Arab businessman. The Centre, which includes a mosque, stands out from among the surrounding apartment buildings and is considered a welcome addition by city residents. The mosque accepts visitors everyday for free, except on Fridays and during special Muslim holidays.
49 Rishelyevska St.

Transfiguration of Christ the Saviour Cathedral

This is the largest Orthodox church in Odessa dating back to 1794. The cathedral suffered complete devastation and destruction in 1936 when Stalin decided to make the building into an entertainment establishment. Even more appalling, Communist authorities had planned to construct a restroom where the church altar now stands before the internationally renowned scientist Vladimir Filatov led a movement to protect and support the shrine from desecration: instead of a restroom, a marble fountain was built and the altar removed. In 1996, renovation work started at the cathedral thanks to public donations and today it proudly stands as an example of beauty, piety and history for city residents.
3 Soborna Sq.

Monument to the Orange

A most unusual memorial on Mikhail Zhvanetski Blvd pays homage to a true story about how oranges saved Odessa long ago. Russian Tsar Paul I, who ruled between 1796 and 1801, whimsically decided to suspend financing for the city’s construction. In response, city residents decided to present 3,000 superb Greek oranges to the Tsar – a remarkable gift at that time. The cargo was delivered during the winter from Odessa to St. Petersburg in just fourteen days, the coachmen evidently having done their best to ensure the delivery was made. Each orange presented to the Tsar was wrapped in a piece of paper quoting the advantages of Odessa as a commercial seaport. In the end, Tsar Paul I was impressed so much by the gift that he continued to allow for financing to ensure that the city was built.

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